Italian food experiences; what I have been eating (so far.....)

Gruntvig lifelong learning, together with Sabrina Aguari and Wendy Harcourt, have facilitated this week of scholarship, fun and discovery combining good company, good food and not so good weather, with the opportunity to discover more about the food culture of Lazio and Umbria. A core group of 15 women and one man have travelled from all over Europe to come together with a floating population of visitors, experts, advisor's and friends who have gathered here at the Convento for a week to discuss and learn more about our topic.

Arrival by minibus from Ciampino and Fumancino airports for some of us wasn't until after dark so we weren't able to appreciate the wonderful setting of the 17th century convento building. However, we certainly did notice the cold. The unseasonal cold north wind together with the ancient stone building (with no heating) combined to make a chill start which necessitated the handing out of duvets all round. The simple rooms were distributed by lottery and we quickly moved on to an introductory session. A brief getting to know each other session with a glass of local white wine, all seated round a blazing fire soon banished any frigidity.

A move into the vaulted refectory was followed by a delicious supper of lentil soup then omelette and salad and perfectly ripe local fruit and local wine, all produced by the energetic and indefatigable Enzo, soon helped to restore us so that Wendy and Sabrina could outline the plan for the week. Before we left for bed Enzo asked if anyone wanted to accompany him to the lake to buy fish for the next day. He was intending to set off at 5.30am. After an arduous day's travelling he didn't get any takers!

Rather than give a blow by blow account of what we have experienced to date I just want to think about some of the food we have eaten so far.

Day 2: Enzo introduced us to lunch at breakfast time! He had failed to buy any fish at the lake and instead came into the refectory with a raw Turkey crown. He explained that he had bought it from a local farmer who treated his birds well and that he was going to cook it with local potatoes and a lightly curried sauce. I am not sure if the vegetarians amongst us appreciated the gesture, particularly when Enzo named the bird as Andrea........ However, it was delicious when it followed our first course of penne and zuchinni.

Dinner on day one was at a local slow food restaurant, named after a bear - Orso (?).   The restaurant was high up on a hill and probably had a fantastic view of the lake but it was dark when we arrived. My little group had travelled with Enzo and his dog. 'Oliver' is a very large white boxer who looks very fierce. In fact he is a giant softie but his vigorous and noisy demands for attention in the back of small car made for an interesting journey! The small restaurant had tables for all of us (23 for dinner) but no menu. We were verbally given a choice of two starters; ribollito or pasta with lake fish, followed by pork with chicory or lake fish with salad.

  

Having made our choices bread, wine and water was brought, rapidly followed by an unexpected plateful of white beans. These were fagioli beans, a local speciality, simply served with a olive oil and balsamic vinegar and a piece of bread, toasted over an open fire by the taste of it, which had been rubbed with garlic and more olive oil. An utterly simple but totally delicious dish. Hoever, knowing we still had two courses to go (including pasta) I tried hard not to finish all of it. The pasta which followed was again very simple. Broad ribbons of home made pasta dressed with small flakes of white fish, pepper and more olive oil. I never discovered what the fish was called. Again, delicious and very satisfying and a very interesting example of how the pasta here is simply presented and isn't overwhelmed by it's sauce but complemented by it allowing the flavour of each ingredient to speak. The pork, three thin slices cut with the grain, was a bit more disappointing. It had a great flavour but was a bit tough and had no colour so looked fairly unappealing. It came with a small heap of a green vegetable, again dressed with olive oil, which I couldn't identify. The Italians among us said it was chicory but it was dark green and had long narrow leaves. Perhaps wild chicory. I have a memory of Elizabeth David and Patience Grey referring to 'bitter' or 'wild' greens but I shall have to look it up when I get home. Whatever they were they were sensational.

Pudding was a choice between pannacotta with blackberries or ricotta with cinnamon and honey. Being a cheese freak there was no contest, the ricotta was delicious and despite being completely full, it all vanished.

Enough food for one entry – more to come.....

Vix